Idul Fitri at Ancol

There's no better way for Indonesians to cool off on a public holiday than a swim at Carnaval Beach.....

beautiful children and their rubber duckies!!

...in her own little world...

the token 'bule' gets mobbed for a photo

Afternoon snacks anyone?? it's panas!!!!

Cutie!

So sweet!

..waiting in line for the gondola ride....

View of the waterpark from the gondola in Ancol

Looks like a sea of Fruit Tingles!

I always wondered who would ever want to buy inflatable rings in the traffic jams... now I know!!!

It wouldn't be Jakarta without a million motorbikes!

Java Rockin’Land – Carnaval Beach, Ancol

The youngest rocker in the crowd... she was more interested in the mud than the music!

Sunset over Rockin'Land

The Vines take to the stage

This man is FULL of energy!!! Loved the music too!

Wolfmother at last!

...we love you!!!

...crazy electronics and handstands on keyboards...... who are these people? Awesome!

How does every Indonesian know all the words to Stryper's music?? Reformed mullets from the 80's....

Stryper fans!

Yaaaaaaah!!!! Superman is Dead!!!!

Superman is Dead play some mellower tunes.....

Java Rocks!!!

Jakarta sings the Blues…..

I have never really been a fan of Blues music until I got a proper taste for it at the Jakarta Blues Festival….. I stood in anticipation waiting for the first act and out came Syahrani.  She is a Jazz singer and musician but when she took to the stage with one of Indonesia’s guitar legends – Donny Suhendra – she gave proof to the public that she has blues in her veins!  Syahrani is not only incredibly beautiful, she has the most amazing voice and energetic dance moves! She is the whole package!!
Next on stage was Rama Satria & The Electric Mojos, with a a guest appearance by Lance Lopez…. now I am not a fan of screeching guitars and deafening noise…. but I have to admit, these guys were incredible!!!!!!

Live Music

A great thing about living in the city is that there is music everywhere! If you ride the public buses – buskers board the bus, no matter how full it is, equipped with an electric guitar and an attached microphone and belt out a few numbers. Beggars cruise around at lights strumming ukuleles. And in so many bars and restaurants across the city, you can find people way too talented to be playing to an empty room.

The great thing about musicians in Jakarta is that, no matter how talented they are, they are willing to share the stage with anyone from the audience; they are happy for you to request the cheesiest songs, to ignore them completely or sing along drunkenly. Between sets the musicians sit with you and have a chat, ask you questions about your life, what your favourite song is – and it’s often bewildering when you come from a culture where the musos are way too cool for school, no matter what dive they are playing in.

A classic thing about the live music scene is that everyone knows the same songs in English; I don’t know what the radio stations play but it must be a lot of 80s. If you go out to see “Live Rock” you are guaranteed to hear at least 4 Bon Jovi classics. Indonesians aren’t afraid to enjoy the cheesiest romantic ballads of all time so another certainty is a lot of Bryan Adams requests. I heard him so often that I bought the Best of Bryan Adams without even thinking. Luckily the CD only cost 7,000 rphs (the joy of living in a country where everything can be pirated!). If you go to a groovier place, you might be excited to hear a few new tunes – Bob Marley, Cold Play, Pearl Jam and even a bit of Radiohead. But they usually only know Creep.

The point is, the live music scene is really fun in Indonesia. The musicians are super talented, harmonies beautiful, the crowds get into the music, support the band and their drunken (or more often, very sober) friend who has decided they want a chance to sing. I love that the songs are often corny and romantic and sung in a funny accent. I love that when Indonesians tell you what their favourite band is, it is often “Mr Big”. I love that Mr Big came to Jakarta and still pulled a big crowd who knew all the words to more than just “To Be With You…hum hum hum”. I love that when Arrested Development came we could walk straight to the front of the stage cause no one was that in to them. I love that when you are in a big crowd, it generally doesn’t matter how far back you are because you are guaranteed to be taller than 90% of the population and the likelihood of a girl getting on her boyfriends shoulders is less here – well I have never seen it…maybe it’s out there somewhere?

I love that when the show stops, Indonesians are already over it – we stand there calling for an encore, knowing that is generally what an international band expects, and what we want – but the Indonesians are on their Blackberries planning the next part of the night. I love watching the band decide to do an encore anyway. Come to think of it, I love that 4 songs into a great show, the Jakartans are already over it and on their Blackberries – using Yahoo Messenger again, chatting about god knows what, but definitely not related to the show.

So in the time in Jakarta we have frequented lots of great places to see music. Unfortunately BBs in Menteng closed – that was 4 floors (about) of amazing musicians – reggae, blues, rock, acoustic – such a mad and fun place. We go the Trip in Kemang on a Friday or Saturday, or Elbow Room and Bar Code,( in Kemang too – there is a theme here – too much macet = always in Kemang!). Loca café has an amazing songstress on a Monday night (Kemang) and Tea Addict has live music on a Friday night (yes, Kemang).

Then there’s always other great ways to see music. Lots of festivals like the Jakarta Blues Festival, Soul Nation, Java Jazz, Java Rocking Land. Visits from international acts like Belle and Sebastian, Arrested Development, Slash (missed it), Mr Big (missed it), the Vines, Wolfmother….on and on.

And we have found a great Indonesian Reggae band that we love, Cozy Republic, so we follow them around a bit – lots of fun, good energy and great people.

So yeah, to live in Jakarta is to embrace your love of romantic ballads, to accept that people who tell you they are huge rock fans will say that their favourite band is Extreme, or Nora Jones. They don’t seem to have that belief that to be a fan you need to know more than one song (like in Australia where to be a fan is to own every album, to know the words, to know about the band, where they are from, some gossip, some history – this is not important here). There is nothing here that is in the category of ‘cool’ or ‘uncool’ – anything goes!

It’s brilliant and hilarious!

Hello Mister!

If you listen to the stories about Jakarta the most common thing you will hear about is MACET, in fact it’s almost the first word of bahasa that we learned.  This means “traffic” and the city is notorious for its constant traffic jams.  It’s not only a central topic of conversation, it’s also a great excuse to be late for everything (“Sorry there was just so much macet !”).

The other thing you will hear about is pollution and when you are standing on the side of the road you can see it waft around the air as the bajajs (3 wheeled took tooks), Kopajaks and Metro Minis (otherwise known as public transport buses) gush out black clouds of poisonous smoke into the faces of the motorbike riders (who don’t flinch when the black cloud envelopes them).

But what you don’t hear about is the pure joy of living in a mad Indonesian city where everything is possible.  Where people call out “hello mister” (the only 2 words of English that most people know!), where you can eat cheap and delicious food on the side of the road or go to the tastiest restaurants with beautiful décor and smiling staff.   It’s a city where you never need to feel lonely; everyone wants to have a chat, and while the conversations are often the same (are you married? How old are you?  Have you already eaten?  Have you showered?) they are also in the spirit of excitement at practicing English, of meeting a bule (anyone with ‘white’ skin is known as a bule), of wanting you to enjoy your time and experience the great things that Indonesia has to offer.

We have been living in the city for over a year now, and have only explored the smallest corners and we are always discovering new things.  We decided to start the blog to show everyone what a great city Jakarta is.  Outside of its reputation, away from any ideas of terrorists or the Western (unjustified) fear of Islam, we have found a kind of paradise here.  And we wanted to give you a glimpse of our lives and of the people who shape the city.  Jakarta heaves under the pressure of millions of people congregating in this ever-growing city.  They come from all over Indonesian but they know where they are from.  It is a city of the greatest wealth and the saddest poverty.  In Jakarta you can see the history of Indonesia glaring at you; coming out of 300 years of Dutch colonialism which left the people uneducated and impoverished; which paved the way for an obscene amount of corruption.

And here we are.  And as the tshirts say “Damn I love Indonesia”.  So many stories to share.  And this is just the beginning.