After hours stuck in traffic due to detours caused by recent heavy rainfall and flooding, we finally crossed from South to North Jakarta to arrive at Muara Angke Port. Muara Angke sits between the West Canal and the Muara Angke River but it is far from being prime waterfront property. The residents have named it “TPAA” (Tempat Penbuang Ahir Air), which translates as, “the place where the last water is dumped”. It is the area where the sewerage comes downstream from Bogor and Depok and garbage flows downstream into the neighbourhood, where it collects under the homes built on stilts in the kampungs and causes flooding. Muara Angke fish auctions are also situated here and the markets are open daily from 2am to 9am and provide fish for all of Jakarta.
The kampungs are a maze of alleyways and the land is either filled with the shells where the ladies sit daily and open shellfish, or rubbish which can only be harming the residents health. The people are welcoming and hospitable as always but I can imagine that life here is not easy for them and there is no clean water so bottled water must be bought for drinking and cleaning every day.
The traditional wooden fishing boats are moored on an amazing web of bamboo piers which proved a little tricky to walk on with my shaking legs as there is no barrier to hold onto and the bamboo paths are narrow, although the locals are obviously accustomed to them and cross them with ease.
We all boarded on a fisherman boat and headed out on the short journey to a Thousand Islands, stopping first at one of the bamboo fishing areas constructed in the sea so that Boi could demonstrate his skills of spear fishing. I was in awe that he was able to dive into the sea with nothing but a mask and his spear and a short while later he surfaced with his first catch for the day.
A 15 minute ride later we arrived at Pulau Kelor (Kelor Island) which is a small island with no inhabitants (except for a few very hungry looking cats…), and although the area is not maintained and therefore has rubbish washed up on its shores, it is still a beautiful place to visit. It is surreal to be able to stand on an island of white sand when just a short trip away is the chaos and traffic of Jakarta and it feels like a whole other world. At one end of the small island sits the circular ruins of an old Dutch fort which was once used as a surveillance post to store gunpowder. It is a wonderful building with vines now growing up through the bricks and if you can manage to climb the walls to the top you can have a clearer view of neighbouring islands as well as seeing the outskirts of Jakarta.
Two kilometres from Kelor is Pulau Onrust (Onrust Island) which is a protected historical site. In Dutch ‘Onrust’ means “no rest” and this island used to be buzzing with people and activity as it was an old shipyard and port, but these days it doesn’t receive many visitors except for local fishermen.
The Dutch rebuilt their Onrust Island naval bases several times after attacks by the British fleets and in 1883, a tidal wave – caused by the eruption of the Krakatoa Volcano in the Sunda Strait – destroyed the last Dutch navy base in the island.
Onrust was used as a hospital in the 19th Century for people suffering from tuberculosis and was later used by haj pilgrims heading to and returning from Mecca. The old hospital now serves as a Museum housing artifacts, pictures and a minuature replica of what the island used to look like.
There are also the remains of the old Dutch Graveyard which holds the tombstone belonging to Maria Van De Veldes who died in 1693. Maria was the most beautiful girl in the area and an icon and legend has it that after she died she followed a young girl back to Jakarta.
There is also the remains of the old prison and although it is located in a very picturesque setting, the view of the torture room gave me chills and I can understand why visiting Indonesians won’t stay overnight..
After viewing all on the island, we headed to the pier to watch the beautiful sunset in peace and quiet before heading back to the hectic macet and noise of Jakarta…
![Boy in Fisherman Village, North Jakarta](http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-tAA2rB24ec/TS3aB_ShNyI/AAAAAAAABBM/iBKVCWsDMa8/s800/IMG_5790%20B.jpg)
Young boy in the Fishermen Village
![Homes in North Jakarta, Fisherman Village](http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-tAA2rB24ec/TS3aCN_TIcI/AAAAAAAABBQ/XkTzeuapOeA/s800/IMG_5801%20B.jpg)
Homes built on stilts in the kampung
![Child in Hammock, North Jakarta](http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-tAA2rB24ec/TS3aCwAEqHI/AAAAAAAABBU/KSQuikbevtE/s800/IMG_5802%20B.jpg)
Relaxing on the balcony in a hammock
![Haircut, North Jakarta](http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-tAA2rB24ec/TS3aC4ySd9I/AAAAAAAABBY/oIOPkhGFhEA/s800/IMG_5807%20B.jpg)
Getting a haircut in the alley...
![Jakarta Bay, North Jakarta](http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-tAA2rB24ec/TS3aDNsI2mI/AAAAAAAABBc/SMsSv5JJfyQ/s800/IMG_5811%20B.jpg)
Boats and properties on the Jakarta Bay..
![Children, North Jakarta](http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-tAA2rB24ec/TS3aVLBA_4I/AAAAAAAABBg/YYVsavQe0Fg/s800/IMG_5812%20B.jpg)
There are so many friendly children in the village
![Bathing, North Jakarta](http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-tAA2rB24ec/TS3aVf8tOhI/AAAAAAAABBk/pEaprUzzCZA/s800/IMG_5814%20B.jpg)
Taking a bath in the unclean water.....
![Boat building, North Jakarta](http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-tAA2rB24ec/TS3aVd5SMrI/AAAAAAAABBo/Awv6U2tVxWw/s800/IMG_5816%20B.jpg)
..building a boat on a pile of rubbish...
![Fishing wharf, North Jakarta](http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-tAA2rB24ec/TS3aVvAe6XI/AAAAAAAABBs/HrT07U0yDVA/s800/IMG_5822%20B.jpg)
The bamboo fishing wharf
![Budi on the boat, North Jakarta](http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-tAA2rB24ec/TS3aVwTQ8ZI/AAAAAAAABBw/BwlpVTvuiD8/s800/IMG_5839%20B.jpg)
Heading towards the fishing area....
![Anchoring, North Jakarta](http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-tAA2rB24ec/TS3almoPkBI/AAAAAAAABB0/EsEtwbCvjBc/s800/IMG_5848%20B.jpg)
Anchoring the boat
![Boi, North Jakarta](http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-tAA2rB24ec/TS3al_8biPI/AAAAAAAABB4/mberx4h45Oc/s800/IMG_5852%20Kelor%20B.jpg)
Boi spears his first fish for the day...
![Fish Basket, North Jakarta](http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-tAA2rB24ec/TS3al6VvZBI/AAAAAAAABB8/Q0wsqSY96Ig/s800/IMG_5855%20Kelor%20B.jpg)
Basket of freshly caught fish..
![Police, North Jakarta](http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-tAA2rB24ec/TS3amF5l23I/AAAAAAAABCA/AuKIQJulef0/s800/IMG_5866%20B.jpg)
Police sea patrol
![Boat, North Jakarta](http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-tAA2rB24ec/TS3amIbsKII/AAAAAAAABCE/kZVKe9J3BPQ/s800/IMG_5874%20Kelor%20B.jpg)
Heading towards Pulau Kelor
![Kelor Island, North Jakarta](http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-tAA2rB24ec/TS3a5AuF3cI/AAAAAAAABCM/daiLoCgVBvc/s800/IMG_5884%20Kelor%20B.jpg)
Pulau Kelor (Kelor Island)
![Kelor Island](http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-tAA2rB24ec/TS3a5y6to5I/AAAAAAAABCQ/MzFrGW4PTSo/s800/IMG_5886%20Kelor%20B.jpg)
Kelor Island
![Dutch fort, Kelor Island](http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-tAA2rB24ec/TS3a6G4ykmI/AAAAAAAABCU/tbf_ptIvQaU/s800/IMG_5895%20B.jpg)
Ruins of the old Dutch fort
![Cat, Kelor Island](http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-tAA2rB24ec/TS3a6fa3--I/AAAAAAAABCY/c2cTV5yc12Y/s800/IMG_5931%20Kelor%20B.jpg)
Cats are the only inhabitants on the island
![Jakarta View, Kelor Island](http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-tAA2rB24ec/TS3a6eeMrmI/AAAAAAAABCc/gpGe9MUKNhE/s800/IMG_5935%20Kelor%20B.jpg)
View of Jakarta from Kelor Island
![Sunshine, Kelor Island](http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-tAA2rB24ec/TS3bRutuicI/AAAAAAAABCg/1ri5I-V-V-4/s800/IMG_5948%20Kelor%20B.jpg)
Sun shines on the beach..
![Fruit, Onrust Island](http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-tAA2rB24ec/TS3bRuUmkVI/AAAAAAAABCk/xooAC562rdo/s800/IMG_5961%20Onrust%20B.jpg)
Drying fruit on Pulau Onrust
![Swing, Onrust Island](http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-tAA2rB24ec/TS3bR-it-yI/AAAAAAAABCo/9qrrCOn-_hY/s800/IMG_5979%20Onrust%20B.jpg)
Playing on the swing
![Onrust Island, Fishermen](http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-tAA2rB24ec/TS3bR-9AOZI/AAAAAAAABCs/gwkHvzH-W_k/s800/IMG_5985%20Onrust%20B.jpg)
Fishermen at the port
![Prison, Pulau Onrust](http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-tAA2rB24ec/TS3bSLu7pLI/AAAAAAAABCw/Cwgw61lraKY/s800/IMG_5991%20Onrust%20B.jpg)
The torture area in the old prison....
![Graveyard, Pulau Onrust](http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-tAA2rB24ec/TS3bmw_eFrI/AAAAAAAABC0/1CWBa7knnik/s800/IMG_5997%20Onrust%20B.jpg)
The Dutch Graveyard
![Maria, Pulau Onrust](http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-tAA2rB24ec/TS3bnLIMCZI/AAAAAAAABC4/Q1tp_0F_jAk/s800/IMG_5998%20Onrust%20B.jpg)
Maria Van De Veldes tombstone
![View, Onrust Island](http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-tAA2rB24ec/TS3bnUHuyfI/AAAAAAAABC8/YVSAXVWMxD0/s800/IMG_6001%20B.jpg)
View of Pulau Kelor from Onrust
![Sunset, Pulau Onrust](http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-tAA2rB24ec/TS3bncVOcpI/AAAAAAAABDA/Z9cuEYSZt8o/s800/IMG_6023%20B.jpg)
Sunset at Palau Onrust
![Homeward bound, North Jakarta](http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-tAA2rB24ec/TS3bngVanlI/AAAAAAAABDE/rzQHfDjecEA/s800/IMG_6066%20B.jpg)
Heading home again....
![Fisherman Village](http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-tAA2rB24ec/TS3b31_aW4I/AAAAAAAABDI/RaTwel5V-R8/s800/IMG_6073%20B.jpg)
..Back to the fishermen village..
This is my first time visiting your blog which I found through the expat blog directory. You have some beautiful photos. I live in Jakarta, but I have never been to the Thousand Island and your photos made me want to go visit! The photo of the guy bathing in the filthy water made me cringe… I hope that the government will act on improvement of water here.
nice pix…i’ve been there too…very tiring journey but worth it 😉